Chilex Weekly 2000
A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR MEMORIES THE CHILEX MEMORIES WEEKLY 2000
ARCHIVE, PHOTOS & DOCUMENTS WRITE TO THE EDITOR

Editor: Graciela Osterberg
Design: Charles Fisk III
Chuquicamata, August 4, 1999
Volume I Nº 2

Bobby McArthur


Aqui va!Well, I've been caught up at last! Thanks Donny for having forwarded this note from all and sundry Chuquicamatinos. Being my flojo self haven't even bothered to let anyone know what my latest headrest at the moment. For my sins it's Kalamazoo..... After having lived and worked in Toronto (4 years), London UK (9 years), Paris (1 year), Milan (9 years), I feel somewhat like a bottle of cheap perfume!

Nevertheless, my time in Milan came to a sharp end when the company I work for (Pharmacia & Upjohn) closed my research lab. I guess I shouldn't complain because I was the only one of my colleagues that was asked to transfer over to Michigan and continue my research. It's a bit odd though being back in America after 20 years, the European sun and cafe life is a terribly strong magnet (not to mention an Italian fiancee in Basel) and I think that I will carpetbag here in Yankilandia for a little while yet before I head back to decent cheese and chocolates!

Gracias por tus sentimientos de rencuentro. Has estado muy gentil en tu mensaje de bienvida! Y gracias tambien por las fotos que te mando Laddie. Aunque trato de volver a Chile al menos una vez cada dos años, en realidad me quedo en Santiago y en Copiapo. Han pasados tantos años desde la ultima vez que estuve en Antofagasta o Chuqui! Al menos por estas fotos veo que las cosas no han cambiado tanto, no?

Pues, como puedes ver, no me he perdido, pero si que he vagado un buen poco por los cuatro rincones del mundo. A veces se me hace un problema especialmente con el idioma. Asi es que si se me sale una frase or palabra en italiano o frances, es que se me mesclan todos... Y si, se que me faltan unos accentos y la "enye" falta, pero que se le puede hacer si nuestros primos gringos no los tienen en el tablero English (US). Bien, al menos no tengo que escribir con un tablero frances AZERTY en vez de QWERTY.

Vaya, no sabes cuanto me pides cuando escribes, "Send me your bio, man! Tell us about your life."! En estos tiernos años de 48 años de vida y tres continentes tendre un buen poco de contarte. Pero viendo las fotos que has enviado en tus ultimos dos emails, se me esta sugeriendo una forma de como lo podre hacer. Asi es que en varios "instalments" te ire contado mis cosas con algunas fotos para ilustrar mis andanzas.

Cierto que si tu me recuerdas como uno de los squirts (esquinqles?!), yo me recuerdo de ti como una de las companeras de mi hermano, y como tu te das cuenta, en esos años una distancia de 4 o 5 parecen una eternidad. Pero como continuamos a crecer conforme a las leyes de entropia, tales diferencias se vienen achicando y la unica diferencia importante se reduce a contar el numero de canas en la cabeza. Bien, si como "squirt" me recuerdas, tal vez es muy apropiado que empezamos este "biopic" con la foto que ya te habia mandado anteriormente (Broths1) en la cual se me ve muy aterrorizado del flash de la maquina fotografica (Creo que el Dr Cortes era el fotografo) con mis hermanos que tratan de hacer finta que yo no estoy.

Parece que se me paso el terror de las fotos porque al pasar de los años me dejaba escapar una sonrisa o dos (Ybob). Estos eran los tiempos cuando empezaba a jugar a los cowboys con Nord y Dana Smithberg, Johnnie Bosse, Jorge Maitland, Jorge Canelas, Peter Woodbridge, Lucho Leon y tantos mas que mi demencia incipiente me impide recordar al momento. Eran tambien los años cuando me daba cuenta que los chiquillos y chiquillas eran hechos de una forma un poco diferente. Pero seria una descortesia defundir los nombres de mis companeras con quien jugabamos a los doctores y enfermeras, No? Sin embargo, me recuerdo con ternura la Trissie Price, la Susan Bosse, la Baba, Christine y la Vicky Woodbridge, Patti Valenzuela, La Lorna, la Marjorie Horber.... Curioso que mi demencia es tan selectiva, no? De todos modos, gracias a Dios que tenia tan buenos companeros y companeras porque mi breve "flirt" de travestido duro bien poco (Carnv). Adivina cual de estas "divas" soy yo!
Bien, me pase los años en Chuqui como tantos otros esperando el dia cuando por fin podria escapar y andar al internado como todos los "big ids" -Que necios fuimos, no?- Y por las buenas o por las malas, Bill Bashor y Len Miller por fin se deshicieron de mi y a patadas me echaron al mundo (Graduati). Yo me fui inocente y tranquilo a Ottawa en Canada donde me pase tres años Dickensianos, pero a veces me diverti.(HG) Claro que cuando volvia a Chile para aquellas vacacciones eternas de fiestas, giras por el desierto, "hanging out at the Club", cinema al teatro Chile, bailes los domingos al Club, pololeos furtivos.... me hacia el buen macho y, puchas que era buenmozo en esos tiempos (Bobch1)!

Que puedo decirte de mis años universitarios? Considerando que entre a la universidad con toda la intencion de estudia medicina, me toco justamente iniciar mis estudios en setiembre de 1968. La cerveza y la marijuana se me mesclo y descubri de nuevo que existian las mujeres! Vaya que sorpresa despues de tres años internos... Sin entrar en los pormenores, mis ideas de medicina se fueron volando, y como buen hijo de los sesenta me puse a estudiar (?) psicologia, escribir versos que comparaba favorablemente a las de Neruda:-

"Cuando en noches de velo empiezo a pensar
en la patria lejana y mitica;
tierra arida y solitaria
como el riachuelo que busca al mar
vuelve a ti mi pensar.
Tu, como el viento de la pampa
que apacigua el calor sofocante del sol norteno
vienes a dar sosiego a mi alma turbulenta..."

y parti en un viaje de descubrimiento personal que a mi avanzada edad aun sostengo (Windsor).

High School Graduation

Frances Swain


Frances and Steven

After an extraordinary childhood in Chuqui, a few years at boarding school in Santiago at Dunalastair, and a period of time studying in Switzerland and working in London in the 60's, I married early and found myself transported to Melbourne, Australia with my Aussie husband Ian White, and a 4 week old son, Andy, born in London in 1968. We called in to Chuqui en route to visit my parents for 3 months before settling down to married life in Melbourne. That was to be my last visit home for 27 years.
During the following 20 years of my first marriage, we had more children: two daughters, Selena, born in 1970, and, Caroline who was born in 1976. Those were the busy years of parenting and making a home. I trained as a Yoga teacher and taught Hatha Yoga classes in between babies' naps and other "-gaps"-. I also began an arts degree, majoring in psychology, 20th century literature, Italian and philosophy. (photo of Pancha on snow) This was another "-gap"- activity.- Thank goodness for my wonderful mother who willingly baby-sat and enabled me to fulfil one of my ambitions. She had moved to Melbourne from Chuqui during 1971. My parents had separated and Dad found himself ultimately in Iran, working on a smelter project. He ended up leaving Iran in the mid seventies and ended up in the States, until 1981 when he re-joined my mother here in Melbourne. Tragically, my mother died of pancreatic cancer three years later. Another of my ambitions had been to open my own cooking school which I did for couple of years until due to my own ill health I had to stop. It took several years for my recovery and my marriage to slowly disintegrate, and in 1990 Ian and I sadly separated and ultimately joined the throngs of the divorced.

In all of this I came across a fascinating movement education course called the Feldenkrais Method, and I knew I had finally found what it was I was looking for. I commenced the training which went over 4 years and has sustained me since. I now run a private practice and have become involved in committee work at an international level, which is what enabled me to visit the States in May of 1999. I wanted to catch up with Grace Osterberg and other dear friends in Tucson, and combined my trip with a sojourn to Tucson. Thank goodness for email

My first encounter with my previous life in Chuqui was a visit there in 1995. I turned 50 that year, and I knew that I had to return. Visions of my childhood home, my grandparents' home in Iquique, inhabited my dreams for so many years, I knew I had to return to complete a cycle in my life, get my hands in that dirt. So I borrowed some money from the bank, took three months off and found a tenant for my house in Melbourne and bought my ticket. I had to go through Miami on this particular United ticket, and I called into see some friends there. It was there that they introduced me to Stephen... and what ensued was a truly amazing liaison with the soul mate I had always hoped to find. (foto of Stephen and Pancha) Two years and many emails later we married in Melbourne, and he immigrated from Germany where he was living and working as a singer of Early Music and opera. Stephen is originally from Montreal.

So, off I went to Chuqui, 9 days after meeting Stephen in Miami. Much of my time in Chile was spent finding phone booths and fax machines to stay in touch with him.- Flying from Miami to Chuqui was incredibly emotional for me. And to surprise, when I woke up on the flight I looked out of the window and saw that Atacama expanse - the Andes mountains fringing it. The pilot then announced that we were flying over Antofagasta.- My heart took a leap. I was home...

In Santiago, my cousin Patrick met me, recognizing what he called the "-Swain smile"-. We hadn't seen each other since I was 17 and I was curious as to how we would find each other at the airport. It's hard to describe my sensations at that moment - the air had such a familiar smell . I knew where I was and if I'd been blind-folded I would have known it was the mown grasses of Santiago. The city itself was completely changed - I could have been in Chicago. Everything looked so different, so prosperous, shiny. Gone were the old houses around the school I attended, and instead, luxurious 30 story apartment buildings were the norm. I walked around, trying to get my bearings, finding Providencia as one of the few reference points. Learning how to use the underground rail was fun. How to describe the thrill of eating locos con mayonesa again.- Casuela de ave - picarones? It's such an incredible feeling to find something familiar and to embody the memories. It's better than an old pair of slippers.-

Soon it was time to go north to Anto, meet my friends Ted and Viv Cooper, who had been working there in the mines for a couple of years. They were my "base camp" and generously provided a four wheel drive to go up and visit Chuqui and its environs. Viv and I packed up the truck and headed up the road. In Calama we found the hosteria and stayed there to catch up with sleep and terrible puna. I'd forgotten how unpleasant it was, and it had never affected me like this before.

Calama. Traffic lights? Phone booths, and supermarkets? Where were the dusty dirt roads.- The Quinta del Bosque? Chuqui loomed in the distance. The smelter chimney marking the spot. The construction of that first chimney was how my father began his association with Anaconda two years after World War II. The slag heaps were huge by the time I was there in "-95. The mining camp was all but scoured out as part of the new findings of copper. The pulperia still stood, and to my utter astonishment, the old house we first lived in , near the pulperia, was still there, just in front of Leslie Brown and Nilla Tadic. It had become the Club Rotario de Chuquicamata. But the house still stood - soon to be demolished. The area where the Osterbergs lived was now the general office. It was fenced off and closed to visitors. I explained to the guard that I had lived in Chuqui way back in the 50's - hoping I might get through the gate, to explore. But he would not let me through. There are guided "-tours"- of that area now, every Monday at a certain time - but this was Saturday. The hospital was still there, about to be demolished and replaced by a new one to be built in Calama. I thought about all the times I'd been to that hospital and how proud we were of it when it opened. Anyway, I met someone who took pity on me and who invited us for a drink at the Club Chilex - which had been transported to New Camp and was now the workers club - complete with indoor swimming pool, and the old bar from the original club Chilex. Mango sours have replaced pisco sours, and one was enough to immobilize my brain.- We drove around New Camp, and somehow, I was done...it was complete for me, it was so different that I could leave now, and there was not a trace of melancholia as we drove down the hill to Calama. Without our old friends, it was a different world. I was glad I'd come, and the following day we set off for LaSana and San Pedro de Atacama.

To tell the truth, this next section of my journey was far more meaningful. La Sana was exactly the same. Maybe a telephone line here or there - but I sat on exactly the same plank of wood over the river that I sat upon as a child, catching trout with the Hurleys, the Warrens, the Millers and my parents. I dangled my feet in the freezing water, and we had a picnic under an old pepper tree. This was heaven to me. We looked around the old Inca ruins - which have placards now, describing the buildings and the archeological diggings. It was searingly hot, breathless, and time stood still for me. This was my real home-coming. We spent Christmas in San Pedro, along with hundreds of French and German tourists - it felt really weird to hear French spoken down at the hosteria.- I have such rich memories of the times we'd camped and driven around that part of the Atacama. I visited Chui Chiu, which has not changed at all. After a few weeks up in that part of Chile, including Iquique, where my grand-parents and great-grandparents had lived, and then I went down to Patagonia with an Australian friend . We had wonderful adventures trying to walk up a mountain that kept repelling us with fierce winds and freezing rain, even in January. The scenery was truly breath-taking. I saw that part of Chile for the first time in my life and thought it must surely be one of the most exquisite parts of the world. I enjoyed catching up with Terry and Sandro Marini on the way back to Santiago, and I left Chile a month later, with the strong determination to return with Stephen one day.

I feel grateful for the exotic experiences, the fantastic network of friends. I realize now what a safe environment we grew up in and how fortunate we were not to be exposed to the environments of today's children, fraught with t.v. violence, drugs and the struggle to keep up with peer group pressure. Ours was a unique experience and I look forward with great pleasure, to reading about everyone else's on-going lives. I'd like to finish by acknowledging Grace Osterberg's passionate energy to link up the threads of our lives, and to thank her for such a healing contribution to them.


Francesca White(Pancha Swain) Melbourne, Australia.